The Region of True Balsamic Vinegar

July 6th, 2011

After my relaxed morning in Cinque Terre, I made my way back on the train and reached Reggio Emilia at about 3pm. A 15 minute walk from the station and I arrived at Hotel Posta, a beautiful hotel in the middle of the town square. I willing paid about 3 1/2 times the nightly price that I paid in previous places just so I could take part in the two special food tours I could not pass up.

Tonight was the night for Balsamic Vinegar!

A little background.....The original traditional product (Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale) has been made in Modena and Reggio Emilia since the Middle Ages. The names “Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena” and “Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia” are protected both by the Italian and European Union Agency for Controlled Designation of Origin. Reggio Emilia and Modena are the only two consortia that produce TRUE traditional balsamic vinegar.

I had some time to spare as the Balsamic tour and dinner wasn’t until 7pm that night so I just relaxed my “luxury” room. The only bummer is that if you don’t have a car in these hill towns it is harder to explore the area. I wasn’t too happy that I would have to pay about 20 Euro’s each way to get to the Agriturismo - Cavazzone where the tour takes place. Agriturismos are functioning Italian farm properties that offer tourists accomodations, food, and local activity options for a true rural experience. I would love to plan ahead next time, rent a car and stay at agriturismos along the way. Perhaps this will be next Italian exposure experience.

Cavazzone’s main building on the property sat at the top of a hill over looking Reggio and some surrounding small towns. It was a beautiful estate with a large brick structure housing the restaurant, guest rooms, and balsamic warehouse and was surrounded by a cobblestone terrace/patio/parking lot and a long stretch of green Tuscan countryside.

The Balsamic Tour was mostly spent in the big warehouse that housed the barrels of fermenting, aging, vinegar. Humberto, the owner was our guide and explained the process of fermenting, transferring, and processing the product.

*** The barrels of aging vinegar

True balsamic vinegar is made from a reduction of pressed Trebbiano and Lambrusco grapes. The juice form the grapes is boiled down to approximately 30% of the original volume to create a concentrate. The thick syrup concentrate, called mosto cotto in Italian, ferments with a slow aging process which concentrates the flavours that intensify over years. It starts in a large wood barrel and is eventually transferred each year to a smaller and smaller barrel, although only 1/2 of the liquid is transferred while the other 1/2 stays in the barrel to help the new batch that is coming in. With this process it is really impossible to specify the exact age of the vinegar, only an average. The barrels are made of different types of wood such as chestnut, cherry, oak, and juniper that add a hint of extra flavor to the delightful rich, glossy, deep brown colored true balsamic vinegar.

*** The production story board

After viewing the warehouse, we made our way to the restaurant where we tasted their balsamic vinegar versus industrial types you find often in the states. Huge difference! It was wonderful tasting and a perfectly appropriate pre-course to the dinner to come!

We were seated at tables out on the patio with an amazing view of the landscape. It was a beautiful night. I ordered a local red wine and decided to go all out and order the taster menu 4 course meal. I knew I wouldn’t be able to eat it all but this was about exploration and food tour tasting. Everything was local and fresh and of course prepared in one way or another with their very own balsamic vinegar. After I ordered my wine, a man from Austria, traveling for business, sat down alone at the table next to me so I asked if he wanted to join me, therefore neither of us had to eat alone.

*** My most favorite dinner experience

With my wine, they brought out a basket of bread as usual along with a small Torte Rustica which was a small portion of baked egg, bacon, peppers, and parmesan cheese. It did have a nice flavor but pretty heavy and oily. Then came my first course: a Parmesan Cheese Soufle with Crispy Bacon and a Balsamic drizzle. It tasted the best when each bite had a little taste of each item: soufle/bacon/balsamic.

***Torte Rustica ***Soufle

I had a few bites of the soufle with some bread and then saved room for the next dish; Spinach/Ricotta tortellini with a little bit of butter and parmesan cheese. Very delicious and again not as filling as American tortellini. The italian dishes are so light on the sauces that it helps make the dish a little lighter and you feel less uncomfortable after eating it. The pasta dish was then followed up with roast pork meat, roasted potatoes, grilled vegetables, and borettane onions all dressed with a very light, balsamic vinegar enhanced sauce. Borettane onions are Italian pearl onions that apparently grow best in the Parma countryside. They have a flat, saucer like shape and taste delicious; another local and fresh treat.

Although the meat was well prepared, very tender and flavorful, it was way to much for my minimal meat-eating body. I enjoyed a small portion, especially the vegetables since I have barely had any on this trip, and then passed it off to my dining partner, who had already eaten antipasti of prosciutto e melone and an entree of pork himself.

I had to take a picture of his antipasti, the proscuitto e melone. This is a very authentic Italian summer treat that blend the sweetness of fresh in-season melons with the salty savory flavors of local thinly sliced Italian ham. Special prosciutto is another of the Italian protected food products unique to the area.

While eating and visiting, my camera was in full force and I was able to stealthily sneak a picture of one the common local snacks sitting on the table next to us: Gnocco.

*** Gnocco

I had read about it on my train ride to Reggio Emilia and just so happened to now get a sneak peak. It is a flat dough, that looks a bit like an empty ravioli before cooked and when it is deep fried in oil it puffs out making a crispy salty snack or appetizer. When served as antipasti, it is often accompanied by a soft cheese, sausage or proscuitto. Gnocco originated in the Emilia-Romagna region particularly Modena and Reggio Emilia and you can often find it on restaurant menus or in small snack shops in the area. I decided it might be a bit rude for me to ask them if I could try a piece but I can imagine it is much like other fried dough I have had in my life time.

Toward the end of the evening my dessert of panicotta with a balsamic drizzle and chocolate sprinkles arrived and surprisingly I wasn’t bursting at the seams. It was light and the flavors of the panicotta and balsamic blended beautifully. No need for gelato after this meal.

I love the Italian long dinner ritual of eating slowly and enjoying many different flavor combinations all in one fresh local meal. This was a wonderful last Italian meal experience with great food, while soaking up my final glimpse of beautiful Tuscany.

Although this was an amazing and beautiful meal, I’m ready for the “simple” again. I much prefer simple delicious whole food creations as opposed to the gourmet but am happy to indulge in it from time to time.

After the last 8 days on this wonderful Italian food tour, I’m a bit tired of all this restaurant eating and am feeling the heaviness of all this food. I'm not so sure my body if very happy with all these foods that I don't often eat :) I must say that I'm looking forward to getting back to the norm soon.

Time to go back to Heidelberg, but not before I stop in for a visit with my special friend....Parmagiano Reggiano. Can't wait!